Monday, 29 April 2013

The works vandalism.

I went down to the works on Sunday after hearing the news on my return to the uk from Spain.
I couldn't believe that someone or people would go to such lengths to vandalise such an important venue.
This venue was purposely developed for drytooling and has no other use, there were no routes already there and in no way encroached on any existing routes or venues.
It is a small dank hole the ground that keeps drytoolers of the mountains and in a controlled and well equipped area purposely developed for us.
A very sad incident indeed.

Monday, 22 April 2013

Millstone crack addict

Sunday we headed over to millstone edge in the Peak District and we went up to the north bay, which is one of the less visited parts of millstone edge. Me and Ed had our sights set on a climb called Estremo hvs 5a, a twisting fat fist jamming crack, which led to a crusty layback and out the top onto flakey rock. Fun fun fun I here you cry.
Ed set off first in his ultimate wisdom of not warming up and got ten feet off the ground before placing some questionable gear and backing off and coming down.
Ed knows how I hate this way of climbing so I was best pleased to be setting off up this route to first of all have to take out what he had placed and replace it, especially when there's two great chock stones in the crack which he somehow missed. I got to the top of the crack and as I placed my foot on the last thin green ledge to reach for the final jug, boom I went and was on my gear ( which I was glad I replaced). A moments lack of concentration and I was gone.
I pulled myself back into the crack and carried on into the corner to place my gear and get myself ready for the layback above me.
Once happy with the gear I pulled round onto the face and found that the layback was two full on layback move on to a big ledge with nothing but smears for you're feet. Really enjoyable an committing moves. Once at the top I set up anchors and brought ed up and he fell on the upper part on the crack. I also found treasure at the top of the route to. It was at the top of perplexity. A good day out.

First day back and a first accent

Saturday was finally the day that i got to actually lead something at the quarry I've been developing over the past few months, as I've been going there on my own cleaning and climbing the routes by abseil and on a ropeman.
I was mega psyched to finally get on the rock and lead the routes I've been cleaning and getting ready for so long. Especially one of the routes I knew hadn't been climbed before, so that would mean my first first accent. Whoop whoop.

The first route we did was around the vs mark, I'm not sure for definite as I've not got the guide with me at the minute.
It's a great climb with loads of gear after the start moves which are unprotected but big ledges and a good stretched move, followed by nice climbing to a large flake which is negotiated very differently to what you would expect as for the lac of foot holds on the opposite wall. All of the top outs at the quarry are sketchy at best as the grass and foliage has taken back the crag. So it makes for interesting finishes.

Next after warming up and in the ZONE I wanted to do the new climb. I'd abseiled down it a few day earlier to clean it as it was covered in ivy and you could really see any detail on the climb. Once I'd abed down it and started to rip all the ivy off it a nice route started to emerge. Once tied on I set off and as I went i was clearing the soil and grit which lay on the holds from all the ivy I had ripped off. The climb consists of two small ledges spaced apart to give you a nice balancey mantle shelf move so you can reach the next ledge and move onto the second small ledge using two small sandy krimps. Once stood on the second ledge you place you're first geared and the three pieces of gear you can place are one number 1 nut then micro wires.which are all on the edge of the crack. Once you have placed the gear you are onto the final slab and the crux moves which are also the last set of moves to. With the top moves you have to get it in the right sequence and you're away any other and you make it really hard for yourself as I saw with ed seconding as he fell on it.
I was mega happy to do the route and named it Little monster and gave it E1 5c due to the unprotected start thin gear, crux moves right at the top and Krimpy climbing.