Monday, 22 April 2013

Millstone crack addict

Sunday we headed over to millstone edge in the Peak District and we went up to the north bay, which is one of the less visited parts of millstone edge. Me and Ed had our sights set on a climb called Estremo hvs 5a, a twisting fat fist jamming crack, which led to a crusty layback and out the top onto flakey rock. Fun fun fun I here you cry.
Ed set off first in his ultimate wisdom of not warming up and got ten feet off the ground before placing some questionable gear and backing off and coming down.
Ed knows how I hate this way of climbing so I was best pleased to be setting off up this route to first of all have to take out what he had placed and replace it, especially when there's two great chock stones in the crack which he somehow missed. I got to the top of the crack and as I placed my foot on the last thin green ledge to reach for the final jug, boom I went and was on my gear ( which I was glad I replaced). A moments lack of concentration and I was gone.
I pulled myself back into the crack and carried on into the corner to place my gear and get myself ready for the layback above me.
Once happy with the gear I pulled round onto the face and found that the layback was two full on layback move on to a big ledge with nothing but smears for you're feet. Really enjoyable an committing moves. Once at the top I set up anchors and brought ed up and he fell on the upper part on the crack. I also found treasure at the top of the route to. It was at the top of perplexity. A good day out.